Konya, when you look at the a-whirl of its very own
We t is the cardiovascular system away from Chicken. Konya, a neighborhood of so many souls, leg squats smack in the middle of Anatolia's wild basic, enclosed by open, unlimited prairie. Turkey's extremely culturally old-fashioned area, Konya looks initially becoming a location regarding rigid headscarves and you will foreboding beards, regarding ostentatiously noticed pieties and forbidden drinks. But uncovering Konya is simple – to own right here, at the heart of the dated area, inside the tomb regarding turquoise ceramic tiles, are Jelaluddin Rumi.
Rumi is amongst the world's really discover poets. Throughout his existence, and since his passing into the 1273, pilgrims came to Konya. Today, Rumi's tomb are Turkey's 2nd really-visited visitors attraction following the Topkapi Castle into the Istanbul. Their supporters carry out (nonetheless would) clean out on their own during the hypnotic trance and you will moving, either spinning eg passes for hours on end.
These types of spinning dervishes are now the newest icon from Turkey's tourism ways, and you will drink beverage in your Istanbul resort reception seeing specific bad bloke inside a large beige noticed hat spinning to own your activity. Towards real thing, even if, already been heree in order to Konya and also you arrived at Turkey's heart. In the Rumi's words:
There is a big, epic this new civil auditorium in which that it sensitive spinning person dancing was performed, and one quantity of charming glossy-eyed mystics in the carpet shops, cafes and you may gothic bazaars, all delighted so you're able to invite you to an exclusive Kazakh sexy kvinner zikhr
“Whoever you're, come Even though you may be An enthusiastic infidel, an excellent pagan, or an effective fireworshipper, already been Our very own brotherhood is not certainly despair you has busted Your own vows out of repentance one hundred minutes, already been.”
Just about every 12 months just like the 1983, I have been future on a couple of mil-or-therefore tourist who check out Konya per year. Some are Turkish, many Iranians (just who allege Rumi as his or her individual, just like the he typed inside their vocabulary and you will was born in eastern Persia) together with make the pilgrimage.
Unlike and make Konya a halt to the a bus tour, I would recommend getting for many weeks, bathing in an impact, food a number of Turkey's most readily useful mutton, viewing the most useful Seljuk tissues and – perhaps – shedding crazy about Rumi. You might travel inside the inexpensively of Istanbul, where addititionally there is an excellent scruffy, atmospheric teach, otherwise are available by-road. Konya is actually simple reach of cave dwellers and you can carpet suppliers of Cappadocia.
Rumi turned up here as the an excellent man, when Konya got started a neighborhood for a couple of,000 ages. It was created by the Hittites, have been been successful because of the Phrygians, then Lydians, Persians, Cappadocians, this new leaders out of Pergamon plus the Romans, exactly who called the lay Iconium. Saints Paul and you may Barnabus one another preached right here, however, of the 1071 new Seljuks, a Turcoman group, have been in charge, and their architectural legacy endures.
The Karatay Medrese of 1251 is a work of art from embellished tiling and you can unified domes. It is now brand new Museum of Ceramic tiles and you will Ceramics, whoever information maintain the vibrancy and you can punch they'd when basic discharged. Nearby, the Ince Minarali Medrese became the fresh Art gallery out-of Stone and you may Wood Carving, which is much less lifeless than just We have caused it to be sound. Both of these structures whet urge for food to find the ornately tiled Sircali Medrese, additionally the fantastic Sahip Ata mosque: in the place of much of the latest Muslim business, inside the Poultry you are encouraged to check out mosques, any sort of your spiritual tastes.
Within junction of your own old urban area and its unappealing the fresh neighbour is the Alaaddin mosque, the city's vantage part, whoever stunning ebony pulpit and you may sensitive prayer-specific niche are from 1155 (this new state-of-the-art are finished in 1221). The new boulevard radiating from here will bring you to definitely Rumi's tomb, at which much more later. Rumi may Turks just like the Mevlana (the brand new Sainted You to definitely), and today Konya is actually thrall so you can Mevlanamania.
Rumi try a mystic, a good Sufi saint which enjoyed most of the religions, and you will whose individual religion was like
When i first emerged, Mevlana's followers, the latest Mevlevi, were a blocked organization, accepted simply for the “folkloric dance” and you will whirlings. Conferences happened secretly, dishonestly.
I pointed out eating, as well. Konya's mutton-centric food is superb. Etli ekmek is a long, slim roll-right up pizza pie spread which have delicately spiced mince, and Konya kebab is actually a lamb shank, most slower roasted and you will served with the a cushion off cash with a nice purple onion. Ideal was at Konak (Restoran, Akcesme mah. Piriesat Cad. No 5, +90 332 352 85 47), whose soup and you will handmade yogurt was paradise-produced.
For this reason, perfectly given, with many glasses of nice tannic beverage inside you, make your means to fix Rumi's tomb. Your join the awestruck, new curious together with fervent. A mysterious twinkly white takes on on tombs off Rumi and you may his followers. The new structure try stitched having calligraphy, and also the ceilings is actually a great kaleidoscope out of beautifully done arabesques. Rumi's tomb is included when you look at the significantly padded content off silver, and generally seems to glow white and you can serenity and you may mercy.
A few of the fellow pilgrims will discover Korans, while others Rumi's poetry. Really take photos, while this is purely forbidden. You can find individuals who weep gently, and those who make fun of out loud; people that meditate non-stop, and people who hurry as a result of. Are all gone, to own we have found like.
To try out privately and you may insinuating alone in the consciousness ‘s the ney, a good reed flute. It may sound like breathy heavens, it is truly the voice out of fire, and that rises and drops inside us all. This is simply not specific sullen religious complaining, although sound regarding wanting, of communion, of your own center. You may have they – it's spirit musical, and it very provides you with. Therefore been.
Turkish Air companies (020-7471 6666) flies to help you Konya via Istanbul out-of Heathrow, Stansted, Birmingham and you will Manchester, out of ?219 rtn inc taxes. Istanbul so you're able to Konya by railway can cost you throughout ?24 return, or around ?thirty six go back from the shuttle. Hotel Balikcilar provides rooms or just around ?70 (and then have suits cold beers). Hotel Dergah (+90 332 351 76 61) room doing ?20. Entry to see the latest spinning dervishes was free from the brand new site visitors place of work, about Mevlana's tomb. Mete Horzum within SeleneTour (+ninety 532 564 9192, ) arranges personal spinning and you can zikhr off ?30pp.